So. Anyone who knows me back in the states knows I’m a bit
of a picky eater – a problem I generally put aside while I’m traveling, but
seeing as I’m living here in Cape Town… well, let’s just say I’ve tried
boerwoers and hated them. I generally like “bland food”, as they put it. Not so
much flavor. No spices. Not salty, certainly no pepper. It comes as no surprise
to many that my favorite food is mozzarella. Plain, fresh, delicious
mozzarella.
My first day walking down Kloof Street, I found an Italian
restaurant called Mozzarella Bar. I was beyond excited, but determined to wait
for Mandy to share the introductory meal at what I was sure would turn out to
be the most amazing place on earth. Today was that day. We ate amazing Italian
food in this colonial port city in southern Africa.
We walked down Long Street, famous for its bars and
backpacker hostels, infamous for the strip clubs, drug dealers and street
walkers, both notorious and innocuous as the sun goes down. We meandered across
the boulevards leading into the waterfront, following the train tracks that led
to the shipping port. We saw Maersk in a lot of containers waiting to be
shipped out by rail, into the interior. It felt like SAS all over again.
The waterfront was just as I remembered it. Just as white
and Dutch and pristine. Speed boats and catamarans lined the inner slips of the
harbor, security guards and cameras patrolled the apartments of wealthy foreigners
while gardeners worked on their immaculate landscaping. Later, our cab driver
informed us that it was mostly Arabs coming to stay in these luxury apartments,
paying other European foreigners to stay in their ‘vacation homes’ for well
over 200 dollars per night. It was strange none of that money was coming back
to Africa.
Den Anker hasn’t changed either. We spotted the blue and
white roof from afar, excited to relive our time there. The upside down skiff
was still christened the African Queen. Ordering a Kwak still meant you were to
give up your left shoe to the barman. We drank cherry beer and ate rich,
indulgent food. We laughed about everything and nothing and all the memories we
had in this city. A little nod to the past as we both knew we are embarking to
make so many more.
We caught a taxi back. Tonight I have to go see my South
African.
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