Who are we?

This blog is an agglomeration of the thoughts and experiences of two American girls who packed up and moved to South Africa on a whim. Caz from Fairfield, Connecticut and Mandy from Milwaukee, Wisconsin first met as roommates in 4127 on Semester at Sea in Fall of 2010.
In the interim, Caz returned to finish her Bachelor of Science with a double major in Biology (concentration in Microbiology) and Geography with a minor in Chemistry at the University of Miami in Florida, while Mandy took a hiatus to rediscover her real passion working with pregnant women, advocating for home birth and delivering babies outside of a hospital environment. We reconvened to follow both of our fields of study (read: hopes, dreams, asiprations, life goals, etc.) outside of the United States. Hello South Africa?

We are both here for at least a year and a half, though the more time we spend falling in love with South Africa, the more we'd like to think it'll be longer. We are both starting jobs in November/December: Caz working with infectious disease at a hospital clinic and Mandy beginning her training to become a certified midwife. Before then, we are both writing a book about our experiences leading up to this adventure as well as the multitude of serendipitous happenings that led us here.

As always, feel free to comment or ask questions. If you have an interest in a topic, let us know and we will surely oblige you (within reason). Enjoy!

Monday, September 2, 2013

I Found My Spirit Animal

The Spotted Hyena (Laughing Hyena / Crocuta crocuta) is a common sight on the plains of East as well as Southern Africa. Common, and hated. They have been termed as one of the ugly 5, the belittled and ridiculed cousins of Africa's infamous big 5.
But, those who know me know I will always root for the underdog.




And, in this case, I've decided it's the Hyena. Fisi in Swahili.


More closely related to felines than canines (as they are a member of Felidae), Hyenas have always been known for their cackling vocals as they communicate in large groups, as well as the apparent pleasure they take in rolling around in the entrails of a less-than-fresh kill, coating themselves in blood and other unmentionable grime. They have been known to get right up into the body cavity of the recently deceased, and are voracious eaters of discarded carcasses, chowing down the bits and pieces deemed inedible by lions. They are often termed scavengers (though this isn't entirely accurate - they do make their own kills, and have a very high success rate), and while they will certainly cover themselves in a disgusting sludge that reeks to high heaven, as well as consume everything from flesh and hair to skin and bones, there are some other quite amazing facts about Hyenas that shouldn't be overlooked.


Firstly, Hyenas are entirely matriarchal. The females are bigger (they are the second largest predator in the Savannah after the lion) and more dominant than the males, and they completely run the show (a dominant female can rule a clan of up to 80 individuals). This is in stark contrast to how lions and many other carnivores are subjected to a strict patriarchy. In fact, female Hyenas produce extra hormones to make them more dominant and grow larger, as well as be more aggressive than their male counterparts, ensuring that they are indeed the baddest bitches on the Savannah (female lions may be ripped, but they still are subservient to their lazy, boring, mostly sedentary male who gets to sleep around with all her sisters). Clearly, I relate to them. Also, I take some small pleasure from knowing that even the least dominant female is still ranked higher than the most dominant male.

Not only is dominance based on size and relative aggression, Hyenas rank dominant females based on how they ally themselves within their social groups. They have a quite complex system that shows allegiances are based on degree of relatedness to any given female, as well as several other factors (such as dependence of that individual, history - in this way they have much more in common with primate social behavior than the other large carnivores). Also somewhat interesting is that while males take no part in raising cubs, they will be more interested in their daughters than sons, and their daughters will, in turn, be somewhat nicer to them.

Adding to the complexity of their social behavior, Hyenas take part in what's termed a fission-fusion society. Basically, they want to go solo sometimes, so they wander off, more interested in hiking around the Savannah than having to deal with all their Hyena mothers sisters cousins etc. (again, I can relate). Then, eventually, they get hungry and decide it's time to get hunting. When this happens, they join up with the clan and find something to kill and eat, or find a carcass to scavenge, they're not really picky. Also, as they are vigilant in marking and patrolling territory boundaries, it has been observed that a hyena chasing prey will stop dead in its tracks when the prey crosses a border, unwilling to infringe on another group's territory. However, as they often splinter and wander, individuals may be accepted into other groups after a long period of time intermingling. Not so barbaric sounding anymore, are they?



But wait, there's more. Perhaps the most strange evolutionary adaptation of Hyenas is the psuedo penis and psuedo scrotum they have formed. Contrary to what was once believed (back in the day they were thought to be hermaphroditic, changing genders and being promiscuous of their own free will), females are born with this anatomical anomaly, and, as it is androgen independent, it is not a product of high levels of hormones, nor is it controllable by the Hyena.

While their genitalia is indeed very weird, the only reason it is interesting is because it has made rape of a female Hyena by a male physically impossible. In fact, it's more difficult for a male to get to have sex with a female in general, but her desire to do so is paramount to his getting anywhere at all. Perhaps due to this, males who are less aggressive and demonstrate passive/submissive behavior (to Hyenas, sexual arousal is a submissive behavior, not dominant!) are more successful in mating. Hyena moms are pretty badass too, seeing as their milk is the highest protein content of any terrestrial carnivore and third highest in fat content after polar bears and sea otters. Still, often cubs will fight soon after birth, and an estimated 25% of cubs die in their first month due to sibling rivalry.

In closing, I'll leave readers with the fact that Hyenas score better on many problem solving and cooperative tasks than even chimpanzees do, and experienced Hyenas paired with new recruits to studies require no extra training, while chimps need extensive training to complete the same tasks. They've also been observed being cunning and intentionally deceptive, emitting warning calls to distract other Hyenas even when no danger is present, escaping from traps, planning specific tactics for hunting different prey species. Then, I assume, they laugh about it.


They are all around smart, bossy and imposing rulers of the Savannah. If you ignore lions. Lions will still fuck them up. Though, interestingly, lions more often steal kills from Hyenas than the other way around. But hey, lions get all the glory. Time for the Hyena to have their moment in the spotlight.



Yep. That's one bad bitch.

Lastly, and possibly my favorite thing about Hyenas due to my affinity for microbiology, is that they have antibodies to rabies, and show no clinical symptoms nor does it affect their longevity. Hell yeah.

Unfortunately, while their numbers are looking good in protected regions, Hyenas have been harvested for years for use in traditional medicine, as they are somewhat easy to kill. They are slain for their tails, nose tips, genitalia and paws from Burkina Faso to Mozambique, and have been eliminated from pockets in between. In my home on the Cape, they were trapped to near extinction, though somewhere from 80 to 100 individuals still remain. In Kenya, I was beyond excited to get to witness these crazy felids in action, and only slightly disheartened to hear that Kenyans aren't so enthused by their giggling in the night. Hopefully I changed some minds.


- Rh

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