My first day I woke up at Arusha Coffee Lodge (an old coffee plantation that I mostly only saw in the dark, though seemed rather cool) and drove out to Lake Manyara National Park.
Manyara is a Masaai word describing a type of plant that can cause blindness if you so much as touch your eyes after working with it. The Masaai use it to build fences. Neighborly, yes?
While the park was sparse on wildlife, it was dense on trees - the forest providing a new and interesting display of East African flora. Giant fig and mahogany trees also provide great habitats for all sorts of primates and we spent much of the day watching small blue monkeys and baboons go about their business. The great botanical diversity makes spotting any mammalian species unlikely, but it does lend itself to a whole new array of fascinating aviary specimens.
We were treated to great views of two species of hornbills (silvery-cheeked and southern ground), billions of weavers, superb starlings, great blue turacos, red and yellow barbets, and kingfishers. Among many others I'll have to go through my photos and guidebook to properly recall.
After two days in the deep tree cover of Lake Manyara we left for Ngorongoro. A massive caldera, Ngorongoro is the only of its kind to hold wildlife - a stable population of African fauna that does not migrate and lives within the volcanic formation. 29 Km^2 in area, the crater is designated a conservation area, not a national park, and as such the traditional Masaai lands are allowed to continue to be inhabited. We had an amazing opportunity to speak with a village chief and visit his home, but that I'll leave for another post, and save this one for Africa's wildlife.
In the crater we saw spectacular views and observed the daily life of several cornerstone species. A pack of 18 hyenas dragging a wildebeest ribcage across the grasslands? Lions on their honeymoon? Lions eating zebra? Hyenas pestering lions? Ostrich sex? Jackals stealing a fresh flamingo kill from a hungry hyena? Yep, all there. All with massive numbers of herbivores dotting the background, with the jaw dropping mountainous ring of the caldera as a backdrop. Yes, Tanzania, you have impressed me!
No, there weren't massive elephant and giraffe herds like the big parks of Kenya, but Tanzania has it's own unique flavor of incredible. And, much like Kenya, these East Africans are just as warm hearted. I get the same "poa!" back when I say mambo (thanks Patricia), so I know they must be cool.
Big plans for the days ahead - look out for more updates from the Eastern front!
Also, I have made hyena lovers out of everyone on this trip except my dad - though he's starting to come around!
Hyena power!
- Rh
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